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My house has a split-bus panel from 1979 (Square D box model QOB 30X200-3; interior model QON 26-614HA), providing 200 amp service. The panel is completely full.

door label

interior label

full panel

I want to install a separate main panel outside (actually an 8-space meter-main box), to add a surge protector and prepare for future solar installation.

That means this panel needs to become a subpanel. My plan is to replace the current 3-conductor SEU cable from the meter with a new 4-conductor SER cable from the feed-thru terminals of the meter-main panel.

New panel door label:

new panel door label

Looking at the neutral/ground bars, I see that they are already all separated (except one neutral that can be easily moved). But there are three other issues:

  1. The neutral from the SEU cable looks like it can only connect to the lower part of the bar (i.e. the part where all the grounds are).
  2. The subpanel neutral and ground look like they can only connect to the upper part of the bar. (The lug on the lower bar where the ground wire is connected looks too small for the wire from the subpanel, so I can't switch them.)
  3. There does not appear to be a way to unbond the two bars from each other.

(Note: there does not appear to be any bonding between the neutral/ground bars and the enclosure.)

Close-up of neutral/ground bars

close-up of neutral/ground bars

(I know that the correct long-term answer is to replace this panel with a modern one, but I would like to do that as a separate project. As I think other questions on this site have noted, a full replacement requires much more permitting hassle than effectively a "like for like" replacement of what will now be just a subpanel.)

Is it possible to retrofit this panel with a separate ground bar? Alternatively, is there a 2017 NEC-compliant way to argue that the existing install is grandfathered-in until I have time to replace the panel?

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  • The Y shaped piece of metal between the ground and neutral bar has a screw on it close to the ground bar. That is the bonding screw. Remove it to separate the ground and neutral bars. Commented Jul 16 at 1:52
  • And that is not a split bus panel. Commented Jul 16 at 1:53
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    @longneck It is a split bus panel - the 1-3 breaker is feeding the bottom half Commented Jul 16 at 2:14
  • @longneck Look closer at the top of the third image - you will see the wires that come out of the top-left breaker and loop over the top to feed the lower half of the panel. Commented Jul 16 at 2:38
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    Is there a label on the inside left or inside right of the existing panel? Commented Jul 16 at 11:50

1 Answer 1

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Thanks to @ThreePhaseEel for the suggestion to look for a sticker on the side of the box. Mine was unreadable, but I found a picture of the sticker from the exact same model (source):

breaker box label

This says that the correct grounding bar to use is PK12GTA.

I was able to get my hands on a no-longer-in-use slightly older version of the same panel ("Series E7" instead of "E8"; thanks @yakatz), and I figured why the bonding screw in the neutral yoke does not appear to do anything: it connects the neutral to the interior frame, but the frame and the box appear to be electrically isolated from each other, so the box remains ungrounded. (Checking resistance between neutral and the box always shows an open line, whether the screw is there or not. Also, the screw does not separate the two bars, only the frame.)

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